Everybody seems to have their own "bucket list". A list of things you want to do, at least before you turned yourself into worthless molecules ready for recycling in the universe, in short ,death. We are children of the stars anyway, said famed astronomer Carl Sagan. Why i believe in that? Because im not fucking religious.
I have my own bucket list, and its a long list. During my stay here in Korea, i have done at least 2 from that list. One is to see an authentic Egyptian mummy as well as other Egyptian relics ( ive done it c/o the National Museum of Korea). During that visit, i witnessed the mummified body of Neskhonsu (760-656 B.C), the bust of Amenhotep, slabs of stones with Hieroglyphics, Egyptian treasures and arts etc. Its an awesome experience. The second is visiting the most dangerous place on earth, (according to Bill Clinton) which is the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) in Panmunjom.
The DMZ winds 241 km across the Korean peninsula from East to West situated at the 38th parallel. Inside the DMZ is the military demarcation line, which was formed at the conclusion of the Korean War with the ceasefire agreement (between North Korea and the United Nations Command) on July 27th, 1953. The DMZ is a buffer zone ceasing all military and hostile actions between the communist North and the US allied South.. Technically, the 2 Koreas is still at war ( Syngman Rhee of South Korea refused to sign the armistice) , and along the years since the signing of the armistice, numerous clashes have occured along or near the DMZ resulting to many deaths and injuries from both sides. The DMZ is an extremely dangerous zone.
I decided to visit the DMZ finally with some friends. The trip is quite expensive at 120,000 KRW per person which will cover a visit mainly to the 3rd Infiltration tunnel, Dora Observatory and then to the JSA. I dont mind the price that much actually, but what made me really frustrated (and angry) were the strict rules implemented all throughout the trip with regards to taking photos. 90 percent of the time, its a no picture zone. It sucks. The bus left approximately 830am from Lotte Hotel, and then by 5pm we were back in Seoul.
I was packed with my Canon EOS 50D dSLR plus 3 prime/fast lenses, and a Fujifilm F200 EXR P&S for wide angle shots. If next time i will come back to DMZ, i'll make sure ill carry a telephoto lens with me ( e.g. EF 70-200 or Sigma 80-400) and an ultra wide angle lens. ( e.g. EF S 10-22 ). The widest among my primes is an EF 35 mm F2.0, which is equivalent to a focal length of 56mm in a 35mm sensor. Not wide enough. The wide end of my Fujifilm P&S is limited to a focal length of 28mm only. For the telephoto, the longest lens i have is the EF 85mm F 1.8 equivalent to a FOV of a 136mm lens, still not long enough to get a decent shot of the NK guards stationed on the opposite side of the demarcation line. Due to the limitations and time constraints, i was stucked with my EF 50mm F1.4 for medium telephoto shots and my Fujifilm P&S for the wide angle shots. I didn't bring any tripod anymore for im thinking it would look like a rifle from a far from the POV of the North Korean soldiers, so i thought its not a good idea.
The first place we visited is the Dorasan Station, the northernmost station of South Korea located over 700 meters from the Southern part of the military demarcation line. The Dorasan Station is supposed to link the 2 Koreas via a railroad track. But because of years of disagreements, it remains a white elephant. Empty and desolated.

The Dorasan Station signboard

"Emptiness"
Visiting the Dorasan Station is like visiting a museum, or a ghost town. Its lifeless. Unfilled seats, empty counters and creepy silence awaits anyone who will visit here.

" Go North"
(Fujifilm F200 EXR)
The direction where the horizon is pointing on this shot is the way towards North Korea. Beforehand, we were told not to point our cameras in that direction, but i thought that doesnt make sense, so i made my shots anyway.

" The Path to Uncertainty"
I took this shot along the railway track of the Dorasan station, using a very shallow depth of field/aperture F 1.4 (wide open), ISO set at 100 and exposure at 1/8000 secs. This is one of my favorite shots of the trip.
Then we went to the Dora Observatory, which offers a glimpse as to how North Korea looks like. At this observatory, we got the chance to peek (via scope) the landscape of the DMZ as well as Kaesung City ( 2nd largest city of NK). From this hill, the "Propaganda Village" of North Korea is visible. This is a no photo zone. Fuck.

Situated at the top of Mt. Dora, the Dora Observatory looks across the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone). This is the part of South Korea that is closest to the North. On the way towards this Observatory, i noticed how heavily fortified this area is.

" A View to Uncertainty"
What goes beyond? Uncertain. Binoculars like this are a common sight in the DMZ-Panmunjom-Paju area. It provides a glimpse of the most secretive state in the world, the communist state of North Korea.
After which, we went to the site of the 3rd Infiltration tunnel. (Third Tunnel of Aggression) .This tunnel was discovered in 1978. With dimensions of 1,635 meters length, 1.95 meters height and 2.1 meters width. Surely not for claustrophobic people. It runs through a bedrock at a depth of 73 meters below ground. Capable of moving a full military division per hour (10,000 to 30,000 soldiers), plus their weapons, it is evidently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul. Clever North Koreans. This tunnel is just part of an estimated network of more than 10 tunnels. Infiltrations to South Korea by North Koreans have been well documented. Since the end of the Korean War a total of 3,693 North Korean soldiers infiltrated South Korea by one means to another resulting to deaths from both sides.

The entrance to the 3rd infiltration tunnel.
Next to JSA, i consider the tour of the 3rd infiltration tunnel as the most exciting. Photography is not allowed while inside the tunnel, and im not happy about it.
We then proceeded to the Unification Park in Paju. This is the most boring part of the trip. Monuments and hundreds of it. Boring.

War Memorial at the Unification Park
( Fujifilm F200 EXR, click image to enlarge)

Memorial Bell at the Unification Park
(Fujifilm F200 EXR, click image to enlarge)

"Silent Messages"
I took this shot from the " Freedom Bridge" in Imjingak. The bridge where this was taken was used to exchange prisoners after the Korean War, hence the name. Shot was made using a Canon EF 50mm F1.4 lens and a EOS 50 dSLR.
After the boring stint at the Unification Park, we proceeded to the JSA. (Joint Security Area) This is a mind blowing experience. We have to undergo a series of briefings priot to the JSA visit. We were briefed at Camp Bonifas and were asked to sign a waiver which states the following:
"The United Nations Command, The United States of America and the Republic of Korea CANNOT guarantee the safety of visitors and may not be held accountable in the event of a hostile enemy act"
Now this is really awesome. This somewhat epitomized the reason why i want this trip (other than learning history), its the adventure. How safe is it really? There are numerous records that accounts North Korean soldiers crossing the DMZ-JSA area resulting to a fierce gunfight between the two forces. Last April, 1996 hundreds of North Korean soldiers crossed the JSA that caused tension. Again in 1997, a 23 minute gunfight occured after North Korean guards crossed the demarcation line. The last recorded event of intrusion along the JSA was in October 2006 , which prompted South Korean soldiers to fire shots. Exciting indeed.

" North Korea"
(Fujifilm F200 EXR, click image to enlarge)
I took this shot roughly a hundred meters or so from this North Korean outpost, using a point and shoot camera at maximum zoom focal length. The North Korean guard at this photo regularly points his binocular in our location. This is one of those times when im eager to have a true telephoto lens. At my location when i took this shot, a 400mm focal length lens with a 1.4x/2x teleconverter will give me a very clear shot of my subject.

" The Sentry"
This fellow guards the door to North Korea. When i took this shot, i was literally stepping on North Korean territory.

Another SK sentry inside the conference room of the JSA

"Truce"
This is my favorite shot of the whole trip. A symbol of the United Nations command implementing peace within the DMZ, with a border guard (out of focus) on the background. EF 50mm lens set at F 1.4 aperture, ISO speed 100 and exposure at 1/90 seconds. I took this shot from the negotiation table where leaders from North Korea used to held talks with their UNC counterparts. SK is not a signatory to the armistice, therefore not involved in any negotiations done here. Awesome.
All images are copyrighted.